Back to Gap jeans

It's good to be home. Today I'm wearing three-year-old Gap jeans that are not tucked into my boots, and I don't even feel self-conscious about it. Not much, anyway. So here's what we've learned: Fall is going to be a time to sparkle in sequins and metallics. Purple is the color...but dark neutrals will prevail. Dresses are the way to go for day or night. They're slim or swingy and often above the knee. Pants are getting slouchier, and even when narrow, they have a bit of a flare once again. Coats are important, as are menswear touches like tweed, plaids and pleats. Look for a full report, with pictures straight off the runway, on the Style page next Sunday, Feb. 18. Throughout the week, I'll have other reports in the newspaper on hair trends, bringing fashion home and one of the fashion world's hottest DJs, who happens to be from Minneapolis. You can also check out today's column for more insights. The week has been a fantastic whirlwind -- thanks for joining me. Oh, and the $49.99 Rafe bag from Target that I carried all week in New York? It held up beautifully, and I got more compliments on it than I could count! Just goes to show: Fashion is all about how you wear it. That, and thank goodness discounters are doing such a knock-out job of imitating runway trends.

Swag

I forgot to bring a razor to New York, but no matter -- Venus razors were being handed out on the street corners near Bryant Park, which is home base for Fashion Week. Hue fishnet tights were also being doled out on Sixth Avenue. Those tents are a marketer's dream, with virtually every fashion magazine editor in the world, plus news personalities, celebrities and some of the wealthiest, fashion conscious shoppers coming in and out all week. Designers that have products beyond clothes under their name tend to hand out gifts at the shows -- Carolina Herrera and Bill Blass gave perfume; Betsey Johnson's gift bag included lipstick and panties. Tracy Reese, who has a partnership with Hue, handed out -- surprise, surprise -- more tights! Of course, I would have preferred a new tube of my favorite MAC lipstick, but despite the makeup company's display booth in the tents, they didn't seem to be giving anything away. The nerve! A couple of the most practical freebies I spotted all week: Band-Aid's Blister Block Stick and Foot Petals Stiletto Survival Kit.

Joynoelle...at a Macy's near you?

Minnesota's own Joynoelle had a first Fashion Week showing in New York Thursday night. Carson Kressley made it, but unfortunately, I could not. Neither could Macy's North President Frank Guzzetta, but designer Joy Teiken is definitely on his radar. "She's amazing," he told me. Joynoelle had a limited-time run at Macy's on State Street in Chicago last fall, and Guzzetta says bringing her sophisticated dresses to the Minneapolis Macy's store is a definite possibility. Another Minnesota native designer currently on his radar: Lewis Albert.

VIP for a night

Along with my invitation to the Max Azria show came an invitation to the private after party at Buddha Bar in NYC's hip meatpacking district. I did a double take. Was it an accident, or did they really want me there? Who cared! I called a New York friend and said "We're going!" It's good to have a friend that is up on all things cool in the city. She got us a reservation at Jean-George's Spice Market, where we had a leisurely dinner before arriving at the party fashionably (oh, I hoped!) late. The burly bouncer said we each needed an invitation. "But I'm on the list," I sort of whined, not really convinced that I was. He checked, and sure enough, there I was! The velvet rope was opened and we were in. Max Azria was at the door putting his coat on. I thought about thanking him for the invitation, but decided to play it cool. Didn't spot anyone famous or any models. Just a lot of regular looking people in fabulous looking clothes (ranging from a floor-length white gown to denim). No matter. I was on the list!

Off the runway

Runway fashions aside, readers want to know what is currently being worn on the streets of New York - the true indicator of what's hot and what's coming to Minnesota...eventually. So here are some highlights:

• Boots, boots, all kinds of fabulous boots. From ankle to above the knee varieties. Most popular is standard tall boots, both flat or high heel. Most importantly, pants must be tucked in. From skinny jeans to black leggings, the boots are the statement. And they need not be all matchy-matchy with the rest of the outfit. I saw a trendsetter wearing a gray and yellow top (a color you'll see a ton of this spring) and skinny black pants tucked into brown boots. It looked good. Seriously.
• Bags, bags, fabulous bags. It's nothing new, but it sure is continuing. The bag is the key piece -- the one fashion lovers are always willing to splurge on. They're not as huge as they were a season or two ago, but still substantial. Metallics and patent leather are big finishes.
• Sweater dresses. Well, calling some of them "dresses" would be a stretch. But girls are wearing longer sweaters -- more clingy than bulky -- with thick tights or skinny pants tucked into boots.
• Statement coats. Outerwear is as much a necessity in New York as it is at home (maybe more so, since there are no skyways), and it is definitely not an afterthought. Coats are fitted, patterned, embellished and fur trimmed -- often the highlight of the ensemble.
• Fur hats. I've mentioned this already but it's worth repeating. The hats are huge, furry and luxurious.

Spa break

Being a fashion writer is no day at the spa...except during Fashion Week. Normally, I would turn down an invitation for beauty treatments unless I was specifically reviewing them for the paper. But the usual rules don't seem to apply during Fashion Week (and my boss is a time zone away!). Besides, the publicist said Carmen Electra would be "dropping in."
So I paid a visit to the Cygalle Healing Spa, a traveling operation that is camped out for the week in the penthouse of the past-its-prime Night Hotel, just a couple of blocks from Bryant Park where the fashion shows are held. Cygalle, a slight and not particularly fashiony young woman greeted me and nodded approvingly when I explained that I'm a reporter and was there to see what a VIP fashion suite is like. "I love that," she said, speaking really slowly. "I'm all about experience."
And so, I got to experience a 10-minute hand massage (I'd provide more detail, but it was difficult to take notes.) while seated on the edge of a round bed. Cygalle seemed flustered that her press releases had not properly been packaged in envelopes. Two liters of Coke sat on the floor while Cygalle's assistants had some sort of debate about bringing up a tray. The music of Erika Jayne played in the background and her picture was all over the place. Oh, you never heard of her? Perhaps that's why she paid for the spa to be there. Lure reporters with the promise of hand treatments and hope to get some publicity for your new album.
I didn't see any celebrities at the mini-spa. Only other reporters, who seemed quite at home indulging in massages and manicures. At one point while I was there, Cygalle ducked into the bathroom for an important phone call. Maybe it was Carmen Electra?

Inspiration

Sequined jumpers, leg-of-mutton sleeves...where do designers come up with this stuff? Here are some of their inspirations for fall:
Marc Jacobs: Bertolucci's "The Conformist"
Diane von Furstenberg: The cultural landscape of Spain
Temperley London: Paris in the early 1900s with the arrival of Russian nobility, artists and their muses
Monique Lhuillier: Frank Ghery's Disney Concert Hall
Reem Acra: Simplicity of form and sensuality of fabric
Michael Vollbracht for Bill Blass: Indiana design legends Norman Norell, for his sequined mermaids; Halston for the simplicity of his designs; and the late Bill Blass for, well, obvious reasons

And yet even with influences so varied, no more than 10 major fashion trends for the season will emerge this week.

Eva's eyes at the shows

Style Network's Robert Verdi -- easy to spot in the front row with
those designer shades permanently perched on his bald head -- told me
he is attending 20 fashion show this week, which actually is a light
load for him. "I used to go to everything, but now I'm looking for
collections where I can find clothes for Eva." Longoria, that is.
Verdi serves as devoted stylist to the size zero 'Desperate Housewives'
star. As for a wedding gown for Longoria, who recently got engaged,
Verdi says he hasn't started looking.

Fashion road kill

Okay, it wasn't a total wipeout, but I did just see a teetering model
stop on the runway at the Peter Som show and remove her impossible
stilettos. Good thing this isn't America's Next Top Model. Tyra would
have cut her for sure.

Lovely Lhuillier

Had a chance to speak to Monique Lhuillier Tuesday morning, just a day
after she showed her sexy and sculptural fall collection. Now she has
one week to regroup before diving into Academy Awards dress requests -
there are three already, although she's far too polite to name
names...even of the actress who cast aside a Lhuillier custom design
at the last minute before the SAG awards. "She said she was 100
percent sure, so we made sure no one had a similar design," Lhuillier
says. So what went wrong the day of the show? "Her mood changed,"
Lhuillier says with a helpless shrug. That's Hollywood. Lhuillier says
the moody actress isn't blackballed from her showroom for life. "I
don't take it personally." After the awards, Lhuillier has three
months to conceive of and design her next bridal collection. And she's
got her own China and stemwear coming out later this year. Oh, and she
has a 1-year-old boy, Jack, whom she loves to dress in Bonboint. Can a
toddler have a look? But of course. "He's traditional, preppy chic."
Except on game days, when Dad puts him in a USC jersey. "Maroon and
yellow," Lhuillier complains. "It's horrible."

Betsey Johnson: The coolest grandma ever

What a rockin' show. Betsey Johnson has a flair for the theatrical. She called her fall collection "The Betsey Johnson School of Charm" and kicked things off with two models dressed as maids, who feather dusted the front row's tea tables as they sashayed down the runway. (By the way, it was Howard Stern's leggy blond girlfriend, a nameless member of Danity Kane and Fran Drescher creating much of the front row buzz.) The collection, which seemed deeper than most, ran the gamut from black baby doll sweater dresses to a pale pink tiered satin dress. Short, swingy dresses were followed by long slinky gowns. Lots of satin. Lots of metallic -- even interwoven in an otherwise proper tweed suit. Like most, she kept the colors fairly sedate, with a preponderance of black, navy and gray. But there was nothing somber about the show itself, which was accompanied by a sing-along mix of current radio hits and remixes of old faves like Rock the Casbah and Billy Jean. After, Johnson emerged carrying her granddaughter, Layla, and you can guess what song played. It seemed that the free spirited designer was finally going to forgo her signature cartwheel when she handed the baby to someone and took a running leap. Then out came the models once again, toting bouquets of black and white balloons. Layla didn't cry, despite the throbbing noise, spotlights, flashes and crowd. When you're Betsey Johnson's granddaughter, you've got to get used to the drama.

Tea for Betsey's VIPs

The reliably kooky Betsey Johnson turned her front row into a tea
party, with round tables and full service for VIPs like Russell
Simmons. When the flashes die down, I'll tell you who else is here.

That's a finale

Rather than the usual repeat parade for the finale, Bill Blass sent
out a fresh blitz of black dresses - short, sequined, strapless,
ruffled or straight. Something for every party girl.

Bringing fashion home

Caught up with Macy's trend expert Laura Schara who is scouting for
fashions to bring home for Glamorama (which returns to August this
year.) She's feeling inspired by luxe looks, metallics (even for day),
slouchy trousers, suits and the ongoing love affair with dresses.

Grown up fashion

Monday was a day of sophistication and opulence on the runway, starting with Carolina Herrera, whose collection had more of an edge to it than you might expect from this glamour queen -- lots of black and navy and dark, basket weave detailing and jacquard prints complicating otherwise gorgeous eveningwear. As usual, Herrera's clothes were dripping in fur -- this time in the form of over sized cuffs on enormous, loose sleeves. Lots of movement to the clothes, which is nice to see. Nannette Lepore is in love with brown and purple this season and she worked it every which way - sweater dresses with plunging backs, menswear inspired trousers paired with lady like buttoned up blouses, dresses that were, well, dressier and sexier than what you might expect from this designer who is known for her fitted suits and sweaters. Oscar de la Renta was a crowd pleaser with sumptuous sweaters, belted dresses and jackets and plenty of sparkle -- which is everywhere on the runways this season. Max Azria is all about texture this season, with pleated dresses and skirts, layers of tweeds mixed with more delicate fabrics, and, as is proving to be the trend, voluminous sleeves, a dark palate and shots of metallics. And then there's Marc Jacobs who is never a follower. (I didn't get in. At least I was at a fab party instead. More on that later.) He traded last seasons billows for a sleeker line with slim trousers, knee-length shirt dresses and pantsuits straight out of the '70s.

Fashion climbers

There may have been a time when celebrities gave designers a boost by
attending their fashion shows - adding a certain cachet to the brand.
But more often these days its the B list (often C list) celebs who
have designers to thank for a spot in the front row. Case in point -
Fran Drescher, who mugged for cameras in her winter white ensemble and
beret at the Reem Acra show Monday. What's she up to? Um, attending
fashion shows, apparently. (Insert annoying laugh here.)

The big fur hat

We Minnesotans, with our flimsy wool caps, could take a cold weather
cue from New Yorkers who are braving single digit temps this week in
enormous Russian-inspired fur hats. So proud are they, of this
Siberian statement, they tend to keep the caps on, even indoors (bad
hair day?). While amusing in passing, it's downright annoying if you
get stuck behind one at a fashion show.

Pinning down the Carson Kressley

Caught up with Carson Kressley before the Nanette Lapore show and gave him a hard time about blowing off our shopping date on his recent trip to the Twin Cities so he could indulge in a spa day at Spalon Montage (which sponsored his trip to town.) "I got plucked, wrapped and rubbed," he quipped. "It was fabulous." As was his night out at the good ol' Saloon in downtown Minneapolis. For the shows Monday, Carson wore a gray cashmere turtleneck, black leather pants and monster fur boots. As for Minnesota men, Carson says he saw a lot of "pleats and plaid. I tried to divert my eyes. But you know, there are New York guys who need help too."

Catrall is still sexy in the city

Kim Cattrall arrived at the Carolina Hererra show in a lady-like yellow
tweed suit with a short skirt to show off those incredibly toned
legs...bare despite the windchill. She looks younger in person. She
started to step into line with the commoners, but after a few
uncomfortable moments was whisked into the tent like a proper VIP
where she was immediately surrounded by cameras. Ah, the comforts of
fame.

Society girls

"I couldn't sell once piece from that collection," declared the Neiman Marcus personal shopper from Washington D.C. who sat next to me at the Tuleh show. But then, it's society girls, not politicos, who inspire Tuleh designer Bryan Bradley. All you had to do was look at the audience to see that -- lots of fur, lots of face lifts. More blond hair than perhaps any other show in the tents. Bradley likes the idea of good girls gone just a little bad -- they're wearing that tweed jacket, but rocking it with skin tight trousers. The one kernel of good news for the rest of us: those pants, while intimidatingly slim, did have a flattering flare at the bottom.

Shades of superiority

Famed Vogue editor Anna Wintour graced the front row of the Diane von Furstenberg show, with her esteemed colleague, the unbelievably large Andre Leon Tally (who doesn't exactly minimize his appearance by wearing a bushy fur scarf and hat). The two sat chatting patiently for more than 20 minutes until the show started. As the lights dimmed, both put on their blacker than black sunglasses.
Now, I'm just a peon in the second to last row, but really, the runway lights ain't that bright. No one else was wearing shades. Seriously, I wonder if they could even make out the dress colors behind those dark glasses. Just in case: that was a light blue coming down the runway, Anna, not gray.
Just trying to help.

Diane von Furstenberg

"Look ahead...and don't turn back," was the quote on the program for the Diane von Furstenberg show. But the looks were vintage DVF -- and that's why we love her. Wrap dresses worn over sweaters; barer negligee dresses worn under swing coats. Lots of bold pattern - large polka dots and geometric shapes with shocks of color against black. You're sure to see some of these easy-to-wear designs in Twin Cities boutiques this fall.
In the crowd at DVF: Susan Sarandon, Anderson Cooper and Ellen Barkin.

And the next Proj. Runway sighting...

We should all look so good months after birthing a sixth baby boy. A slim Laura Bennett was polished as ever on Sunday, in a high waisted pencil skirt, black crewneck sweater, and layers of pearls. I bumped into her after the Diane von Furstenberg show and asked her the secret to bouncing back so quickly. "Good genes," she confessed. "I really should work out, but I haven't had time." She's been too busy putting the finishing touches on her first collection...and shopping for a distributor to bring it to retail. That, and chasing after her brood. So how does the designer dress her own little ones...Polo? Baby Marc Jacobs? Rebellious message tees? Nah, nothing fancy. "They're animals!" she says.

Gunn on Gerdes

Of course I couldn't chat with Project Runway's Tim Gunn without
asking him about hometown fave Katherine Gerdes, a contestant on the
show last season. While Gunn has only lovely things to say about
Gerdes (and the Twin Cities) he is concerned that some of the show's
younger designers like Gerdes are too eager to set off on their own
while in the throes of reality tv insta-fame. Gerdes quit a design job
at Target right after the season wrapped. She's back home in
Minneapolis working on a collection for the Voltage fashion show to be
held at First Avenue in April. "Working for (established) designers is
like going to graduate school. Except for the Proenza Schuler
phenomenon, there's no such thing as an overnight success."

Tracy Reese arrives

Just a couple of years ago, a Tracy Reese fashion show was a sweet,
intimate affair and getting in was a breeze. Not so on Sunday. It took
more than a half hour to pack 'em in, and plenty got turned away.
(Jennifer Hudson was rumored to be a confirmed guest, although I
didn't see her. Kelly Rowland, who is still milking the Destiny's
Child connection, was front and center and much more eager to talk to
reporters than she was when she headline Glamorama last September.
Reese showed swingy shift dresses, A-line coats, tunics, and short
sleeve turtlenecks with minis in a palatte that graduated from
metallic gold to magenta. But it was the bold patterned hoisery that
took the look over the top for Project Runway's Tim Gunn, who was in
the front row. In classicly eloquent Gunn-speak, he told me, "The
graphic hoisery gives it a punch. It was totally unexpected. I loved
it. To be blunt, I'm ecstatic."

Can we please be friends, Marc Jacobs?

Major break-through. Someone, who seems to have some tie to fashion wonderboy Marc Jacobs, has replied to one of my email pleas to be admitted to his show on Monday night, which is so exclusive, it's not even listed on the official Fashion Week schedule. Here's what she said:

"Dear Allison, Hope you are well. Thank you so much for your interest in the Marc Jacobs show. Unfortunately, at this time, we are at capacity and cannot accommodate your request." Sad that this is progress -- acknowledgement, at least, by some person named Autumn Furr, who works for some publicity firm called KCD that seems to have ties to the amazing Marc Jacobs. And sadder still is my response: "I'll settle for standing room!"

Thankfully, not all shows are this difficult to get into. But the system is not exactly warm and welcoming. Some lesser-known designers (bless their hearts!) send invitations to any reporter registered to cover Fashion Week. But for the bigger shows, requests must be submitted and considered by a long line of assistants before admission is actually granted. They send the invitation, you have to RSVP and then they call you back with a seat assignment, or the lowly "standing room." Still, things do often miraculously "open up" at the last minute. So I'm not giving up on Marc just yet.

What Super Bowl?

Minnesotans may be whipping up their game day bean dip, but in New York, Super Bowl Sunday is all about fashion as a crop of heavy hitters show their fall '07 collections. I'm scheduled to land in NYC bright and early, so I can make it to the Tracy Reese show -- love her fun, feminine style -- and Diane von Furstenberg who is hot, hot, hot once again. Then it's on to Tuleh -- you never know what to expect from the cerebral yet stylish Bryan Bradley.
Could someone please tape Prince's halftime show for me?